How circular is Asos’ first circular fashion collection?

After two years of
hard work that started at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit in 2018, British
online fashion retailer in
cooperation with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion on Monday. The 29-piece
“Circular Collection” challenges the misconception that circular and
sustainable clothing can’t be fashionable.

In this way, Asos avoids the much more pressing question of how a fast
fashion company whose business model is based on volume can ever be
sustainable? Because that makes it part of the problem, namely producing in
bulk and instigating overconsumption. Whether a 29-piece collection is
circular has about as much impact as “putting a band-aid on a broken leg”,
as Sophie Benson of the Independent argues.

Loophole: only two circularity principles have to be followed

But all is not all in vain, even if a closer examination of Asos’
circularity commitment reveals a large loophole. As laudable as it is that
the company not only incorporates the three foundations of a circular
economy of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation – designing out waste and
pollution, keeping products and materials in use and regenerating natural
systems – but adds eight of its own design principles ones, it is
unfortunate that only two principles need to be applied for a garment to be
considered circular and included in the “Circular Collection”.

After all, the foundations were not designed like a buffet to pick and
choose from; all three must be applied consistently and jointly to make a
garment circular. Otherwise, if, for example, products and materials are
kept in use and natural systems are regenerated but without designing out
waste and pollution, then the effect achieved is small and one cannot speak
of circularity.

If waste and pollution are avoided and natural systems are regenerated,
but without keeping products and materials in circulation, this will not
bring much benefit either. And if waste and environmental pollution are
avoided and products and materials are kept in use, but without
regenerating natural systems, then one cannot speak of a circular economy.

Asos own criteria alone does not make the collection any more
circular

The fact that Asos then adds eight of its own criteria – zero waste
design, waste minimisation, use of recycled, more durable materials and
only one material per product for easier disassembly, designing products
that can be adapted to trends and upcycling – makes little difference if
the basic foundations are not adhered to. Conclusion: Just because a
collection is called “circular” does not actually make it circular.

This does not mean that Asos’ efforts have been in vain. According to
Dilys Williams, director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London
College of Fashion, the more than two-year-long cooperation has led to a
rethinking of the design team and other teams along Asos’ supply chain:
“For over two years we’ve worked closely with Asos, forging trusted
relationships through open and honest discussion and commitment to expand a
recognition of value in creative, environmental, social, cultural and
economic terms. It has involved everyone from creative directors to design,
buying, sourcing teams and suppliers.”

Has a long-term rethinking taken place?

Williams sums up accordingly: “CSF’s programme of research and education
co-developed with the Asos sustainability team, has encouraged cultures and
practices of sustainability that can contribute to vital transformation.
Designers, by definition, seek to transform materials skills and resources
into greater value, in aesthetic and practical terms. What this involves
depends on what is recognised as valuable. The future of the industry
depends on collaboration – on researchers, educators and fashion
professionals working together to achieve the pace and scale of change that
is required.”

One can only agree with this, but it remains to be seen whether a
long-term rethinking has actually taken place that will eventually bear
fruit. If the words of Asos’ head of design, Vanessa Spence, are to be
believed, then something has happened, both internally and externally, as
the company is now working closely with its suppliers to implement its own
circular principles.

“With all of our designers now trained in circular principles and our
first circular collection out the door, we’re excited to see how we can
take this project forward and use our size and scale to share our expertise
with our suppliers but also other brands and retailers,” says Spence.

Each of the 29 pieces of the Circular Collection, which consists of
clothing and accessories in oversized styles and 90’s prints in brown,
purple and neutral tones, also has a QR code on its garment tag that can be
used to learn more about Asos’ circular design principles and how a garment
was made. Let’s hope that when a big online retailer like Asos volunteers
this information, consumers and the industry alike will be inspired.

Photos: Asos

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